DUBLIN IS TWO distinct cities. The Irish capital has one foot in the past—celebrating literary giants like W.B. Yeats and Seamus Heaney, as well as the country’s overthrow of British rule—and the other firmly planted in a cosmopolitan future. Multiple languages are spoken in its neighborhoods full of new restaurants and shops that reflect changing times.
The Guinness Brewery straddles both worlds. At 266 years old, it’s the most popular attraction in Dublin today. Get tour tickets early. If you roll craps on the tour, the nearby Guinness Open Gate Brewery remains first come, first served, serving test batches of rare brews, including a black IPA. If you prefer whiskey, the Guinness-owned Roe & Co. Distillery also does tours. The farther you get from the tourist center, the more you’ll encounter pubs with unique character and local regulars conversing in a thick brogue and singing along to traditional Irish folk songs performed by older musicians. You can start at The Stag’s Head, an incredibly preserved Victorian pub.
If you have Irish ancestry, it may be fun to visit EPIC The Irish Emigration Center (epicchq.com), which showcases the history of Irish immigrants and their impacts on science, sports, and culture throughout the world. Its sister attraction, the Irish Family History Centre, allows you to work with expert genealogists to uncover your Irish roots. With four months’ notice, the center can create a map of where your ancestors lived and worked, giving you the chance to follow in their footsteps.
If you have a free afternoon, DART rail gets you to the lovely coastal suburb of Howth in 45 minutes. A three-hour e-bike tour with Howth Adventures takes you through town and up into the hills for views of the Irish Sea.
PREPARE: The Emerald Isle got that way because of rain. Pack a slicker and shoes with good grip.
STAY: The 1800s Buswells Hotel is near the National Museum of Ireland and full of period charm.
EAT: The Cleaver East offers excellent refined versions of old pub favorites.
SKIP: Renting a car. Nabbing a parking spot in Dublin requires the luck of the Irish.
