Sophisticated Mediterranean touches and wine-friendly Continental fare now top the menu at this Mass Ave standard, where recently installed executive chef Esteban Rosas took the reins from longtime chef and partner Micah Frank in late 2018. The burger with halloumi cheese and house frites is still one of the best bar meals in the city, but elegant pastas such as cavatelli with a fragrant lamb ragout and a simple spaghettini with imported tomatoes and toasted garlic are not to be missed. Pan-roasted cod, a slow-cooked cotechino sausage with French lentils, and roasted marrow bones with grilled bread and pickled apples show just how much this rustic gastropub has evolved into an innovative bistro through the years. Desserts, such as a poached pear with earthy, rich taleggio ice cream and butterscotch, have especially found their elegance. And the secluded, pergola-topped back patio with the low buzz of the interstate is still one of downtown’s most relaxing urban retreats for enjoying a summer supper. Dinner Tues.–Sat.
922 Massachusetts Ave, Indianapolis, IN, USA