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Maialina Italian Kitchen + Bar★ ½

Family Italian

Straw-wrapped chianti bottles, wooden cross-back chairs, and family photos give a throwback trattoria feel to this Fountain Square addition to the city’s Italian scene, opened by Ambrosia heir Francesca Pizzi and stepbrother Lawrence Green. The popular Aperol spritz tops a cocktail menu with some fun pours, including well-priced Italian reds and whites. Lighter touches are welcome among starters such as a whipped ricotta bruschetta and a fragrant truffled mushroom flatbread with plenty of fresh rosemary. But meatballs, from a family recipe, are always a good choice with a solid house marinara. Pastas range from a straightforward toss of rigatoni with sausage and broccoli rabe to a rich and meaty three-meat Bolognese lavished atop plump gnocchi. The simple-sounding shrimp Vesuvio marries shrimp with a spiced lemon butter sauce atop crusty bread. And dessert is a must, especially the Torta della Nonna, a light and lemony ricotta torte that’s the perfect way to end a meal. Dinner daily.

$$$
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