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Dining Reviews

Burger topped with pork, slaw, and a fried jalapeno.
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Saddle Up: A Review of Salty Cowboy Taqueria

Opening a tequila bar in the gingerbread-trimmed village of Zionsville sounds like the kind of business plan one might draw up after too many shots of Patron.

Charcuterie choices ranging from mortadella to vegan fig "salami"
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Labor of Love: A Review of Union 50

If you want to know where the real action is at Union 50, Cunningham Restaurant Group’s natty new spot for broad-shouldered American fare, look no further than the bustling pick-up window into the kitchen.

The North End Barbecue and Moonshine, September 2014
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Pit Boss: A Review of The North End Barbecue & Moonshine

Here, dry-rubbed ribs—of both the St. Louis spare and Memphis baby-back varieties—glide off the bone in big, porky mouthfuls.

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Main Attraction: A Review of 10 West

Diners belly up to a gleaming custom-made community table crafted from bark-on slabs of poplar to devour 10-ounce Delmonicos and 14-ounce New York strips freshly cut at the nearby Cicero Market and Harbour Market.

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Dishes of the Year: Autumn Tartare at Bluebeard

The autumn tartare reminded me of why I love watching chefs like John and Abbi Adams evolve—they’ve created unique dishes that are completely their own.

The maxed-out 317 Cheeseburger at 317 Burger
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The Flip Side: A Review of 317 Burger

Customized DIY creations can be adorned with a la carte options that include seven types of bacon, 10 cheeses, and other add-ons as random as apple chutney and chicken gravy.

Eat + Drink, the new lounge next door to Taste Cafe, gets funky with small plates and cocktails.
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Nice Addition: A Review of Eat + Drink

Deep leather club chairs and tufted sofas? You won’t find any of those old cocktail-lounge frills here, Grampa. What surprises is how this snug, graffiti-chic space reimagines the concept of boozy swank.

Shoefly Public House
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Worth the Wait: A Review of Shoefly Public House

Craig Mariutto knew his customers weren’t just going to expect a shoofly pie; they were going to expect a good shoofly pie.

Rockstone, located in Fishers, doesn
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New Flame: A Review of Rockstone Pizzeria Pub

The pizzas lean more in the direction of adventurous than gourmet, with oddball ingredients playing together nicely.

That elaborate Bloody Mary, replete with tater tots
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It's About Time: A Review of Tick Tock Lounge

The bar hummed with Cream Ale–sipping hipsters, those coal-mine canaries of emerging commercial pockets.

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Rook Report: Banh Mi in Fletcher Place

The Nighthawk is a modified version of the nam sausages from Northern Thailand, where the links ferment as they hang.

Bloomington-based Upland Brewing Company brings a twinkle-lit deck to the northern suburbs.
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Draft Party: A Review of Upland's Carmel Tap House

Whether or not you buy into the marketing, Upland’s award-winning ales, lagers, and sour beers have been around since 1998—part of the original surge of high-quality Indiana craft brews to wash over the enlightened guzzling public.

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The Mild West: A Review of Bakersfield Mass Ave

Almost as soon as Bakersfield opened in early March, the eat-drinky with the subhead “Tacos Tequila Whiskey” enjoyed quite a following, having transformed the old harlequin-themed Bazbeaux location into a warren of rough-hewn, amber-lit nooks.

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Mas Appeal: A Review of Delicia

Prior to ordering, guests are served an amuse bouche of warm, salty sancocho—a slow-cooked beef-and-chicken broth that servers describe as a welcoming stew. The soup is surprisingly addictive, with an intense flavor like that of the stock cooked off of ham-and-bean soup.

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Toast of the Town: A Review of Plat 99

Though the core list of spirits is limited at Plat 99, there is a sweet emphasis on boutique boozes and local hard liquors.

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