Cooper & Cow

Louisville-based Endeavor Restaurant Group’s swashbuckling steakhouse in downtown Fishers is perhaps distinguished most by its intimacy and calm, where diners can actually hear their dinner companions across the table. The 4200-square-foot space, which was last an outpost of LouVino, has been transformed with well-appointed décor that recalls the swankier saloons of pre-Prohibition days. And while starters are sometimes a bit heavy, especially a thicker-than-expected crab bisque with little bite of sherry or brandy, surprisingly well-prepared seafood offerings shine just as much as prime aged filets, ribeyes, and wagyu flank steak.

The wine list boasts great vintages but bourbon cocktails such as the “Cooperage” old fashioned are a must, and king salmon with cranberry chutney and scallops with blackberry champagne gel show the kitchen’s skill, despite a somewhat pasty acorn squash puree. A house wagyu burger is more than dinner worthy, and sides such as fried Brussels sprouts with roasted garlic and bresaola are excellent for sharing. Save room for a towering wedge of bourbon-enriched chocolate cake with both dark chocolate ganache and milk chocolate buttercream.