For restaurateur Neal Brown, asparagus is the quintessential spring vegetable—which pokes through the Indiana soil for an eye-blink of a growing season in late April and early May. So Brown, who operates Pizzology, Stella, and the soon-to-open Ukiyo, squeezes as much life out of his favorite vegetable as he can. “I gravitate toward the pencil-thin asparagus, because it gets nice and crispy when you roast it. But I like all sizes of asparagus, depending on how I am going to use it,” says Brown. “And by the way, I eat asparagus with my fingers. I think everybody should eat asparagus with their fingers.”
Celebrated chef and restaurateur to close Recess and retire from cooking after 25 years, while Pizzology and Libertine Liquor Bar owner Neal Brown to relocate his soon-to-open Japanese farmhouse bistro Ukiyo to vaunted College Avenue space.