Tortas Reform At La Eskina

La Eksina owner Jesus Metlat sitting at the bar with drinks and tortas.
La Eksina owner Jesus Metlat

FOR MONTHS last year, the papered windows at the long-popular Tortas Guicho Dominguez in Fletcher Place left hungry Mexican food lovers wondering. Were the owners just giving the place a makeover? Was something new in the works? Would customers still be able to get loaded tortas named for Pamela Anderson and Megan Fox? In January, locals got their answer, as the new proprietor, Jesus Metlat, whose Meridian Street bar Hashtag Tequila had recently fallen victim to the pandemic, unveiled his new homier redo, La Eskina, in the colorful façade on Virginia Avenue.

La Eskina, which translates as “alley” or “corner,” owing to the restaurant’s location, now features such topnotch offerings as ultra-creamy, savory guacamole topped with tender, braised pork belly, delectable fried plantains dressed with mole and crema, and street tacos filled with carne asada or smoked pork, mushrooms and huitlachoce (an umami-rich corn fungus), and the Instagram darling birria, shredded braised beef with an especially flavorful broth for dipping. And, yes, many of the tortas from the old place are still on the menu, generously stuffed on crisp warm bread. Metlat is still waiting on a liquor license to start shaking up his expert tequila drinks, and he’s planning an upstairs salsa dance studio and apartment kitchen for cooking classes. For now, sip on a “Macho Limeade” with cucumber and rosemary, a fruity yet not-too-sweet nonalcoholic elixir that bodes well for some spirited times ahead. 641 Virginia Ave., 317-492-9467