Let's Do Brunch: Hipster Brunch

Brunch is the new black.
Eggshell Bistro
The vaguely French jazz tinkling over the speakers at this Carmel spot is the kind of music Woody Allen might play over the black-and-white opening credits of one of his latter-day movies set in Paris. The furnishings might have been plucked from the perfect marché aux puces; fresh flowers grace each little marble-topped table; and coffee-making is a serious art form here. So you probably won’t choke on your brioche when you find out that owner and chef Larry Hanes also has a master’s degree in design. He has laid out a lovely setting for dining on cherry-studded buckwheat waffles topped with seared duck breast and charred salsify root prepared with white pine needles. Adventurous diners might gravitate toward something like Hanes’s kedgeree, sorghum-glazed wild salmon smoked in-house and dished up with rice, onion, capers, scallions, and a soft-boiled egg. Brunch hours: 7 a.m.–1 p.m. Wed.–Fri., 7 a.m.–2 p.m. Sat.–Sun. 51 W. City Center Dr., Carmel, 317-660-1616, eggshellbistro.com
The Gallery Pastry Shop
SoBro’s unabashedly hip, Parisian-style bakery draws throngs on weekends for the 10 hours a week during which it serves brunch. A diner known for his love of simple, straightforward American food was along for the ride one Sunday. Could a bacon-and-eggs kind of guy appreciate a place where freshness trumps quantity and the pancakes come in the form of crepes? When the food arrived—sweet crepes with caramelized bananas; a French omelet topped with lightly curling greens; Kitchen Sink Hash bound with Tulip Tree Creamery beer cheese—our friend decreed, “Really good food here. Really good.” Brunch hours: 10 a.m.–3 p.m. Sat.–Sun. 1101 E. 54th St., 317-820-5526, gallerypastryshop.com
The Garden Table
Instagram’s match made in heaven, The Garden Table has been a Broad Ripple staple since it opened in
2014, looking like a modernist market stand framed in chalkboard walls and exposed brick. Gwyneth Paltrow would not look out of place nibbling on a broiled grapefruit while perched on one of Tolix barstools at the window. Earlier this year, a second (slightly buzzier) location opened on Mass Ave. Both iterations dish out the kind of colorful, fresh cuisine that fits the brunch-all-day-every-day mode. Hippie Porridge tops oatmeal with seasonal fruit, honey, raw chia, and hemp seeds. The Lox Toast is made with house-smoked salmon. Silver-dollar blueberry pancakes arrive as a tower of thick medallions. You’d be remiss if you didn’t add in one of the cold-pressed raw juices, like the Amped Almond or the sweet, summery Lush Love, which contains watermelon and basil. If you can’t pick just one, a flight of four samples in little glass bottles covers the spectrum of flavors and health benefits. Broad Ripple brunch hours: 8 a.m.–3 p.m. Tues.–Sat., 9 a.m.–3 p.m. Sun. Mass Ave brunch hours: 8 a.m.–3 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 9 a.m.–3 p.m. Sat.–Sun. 908 E. Westfield Blvd., 317-737-2531; 342 Massachusetts Ave., 317-638-0321; thegardentable.com
Mimi Blue Meatballs
You’ll be tempted to stick with the familiar regular menu available on weekend mornings. Just don’t skip over the limited brunch menu completely. The lemon-thyme pancake balls and French toast are sweet additions on a mid-morning visit. Additional items include Eggs Gerry (a Benedict stand-in) and biscuits and gravy, both topped with the signature classic meatballs. Brunch hours: 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Sat.–Sun. 870 Massachusetts Ave., 317-737-2625; 12505 Old Meridian St., Carmel, 317-564-8524, mimibluemeatballs.com
Joke all you want about the State Fair–ification of the Hoosier diet—how you can dip anything in batter, drop it in hot oil, and declare it a blue-collar delicacy. Chicken-fried bacon at Revery is a game changer. Lengths of pork encased in a crackling sheath are crossed upon each other in an asterisk of fat and decadence, a cardiologist’s worst nightmare. Drizzled with hot honey, the bacon stars on a brunch menu that has no shortage of showstoppers. A flatiron steak and eggs is dressed with smoked butter over crisp house fries. The patty melt gives a wink to breakfast fare, with a sunny-side egg layered in with the caramelized onions and Thousand Island dressing. As for the charcuterie-laden Bloody Mary that comes with its own little bottle of Tabasco sauce? Graze prudently. You’ll want to save room for more bacon. Brunch hours: 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Sun. 299 W. Main St., Greenwood, 317-215-4164, reverygreenwood.com