Editor’s Note: This business has moved locations and is now below its sister restaurant, Pizzology, at 608 Mass Ave.
This ode to the Prohibition speakeasy shakes up a leather-bound menu full of carefully devised cocktails such as the refreshing Oakland Maid, a blend of vodka, lime, sugar, mint, and cucumber. Equally as sumptuous are chef de cuisine Paul Haveck’s small plates, including fresh oysters and a bacon flight with multiple dipping sauces. But it is Haveck’s ability to interpret otherwise intimidating dishes, like Southern-fried sweetbreads and roasted bone marrow, into table favorites that keep us coming back.
VESTED INTEREST: The dreamy barkeeps, who dressed to the nines under owner Neal Brown’s original concept, no longer sport genteel fashions (to every girl’s dismay).
MIX IT UP: If you’re going to skimp on the indulgent small plates, accompany your drink with a bowl of the snack mix, a heavenly hodgepodge of salt-and-vinegar chips, miso-honey–roasted nuts, and croutons.
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The article appeared in the May 2014 issue.