ASPIRATIONS TOWARD WORLD-class sushi in landlocked Indiana can inspire more than a few eye rolls. Shouldn’t we stick to fried walleye or, better yet, pork? Still, Indy has had glimmers of greatness when it comes to chef’s table sashimi and maki, and flash-freezing practices and a global seafood supply chain mean yellowtail or tuna is often as fresh here as in California or Florida. The latest contender for the city’s best is Niku Kitchen & Sushi Bar, which opened in May at The Farm development in suburban Zionsville.
Local foodies took note that longtime corporate steakhouse chef and celebrated Anthony’s Chophouse toque Aziz Mountassar would be heading a kitchen where Asian fusion offerings would take center stage. Mountassar most recently brought his know-how of his native Moroccan cuisine to Fouad Zoubaa’s Marrakesh in SoBro, and while his departure after just a few months was surprising, Niku definitely allows him more freedom (and deeper pockets) to spread his culinary wings. And while he’s a veteran of numerous Michelin-rated destinations in Europe, this is technically the first enterprise where he’s had full creative control.
Niku’s high-ceilinged dining room illuminated by a school of skate-like lampshades has character beyond its strip-mall address. Most arresting is a series of granite panels behind the sushi bar backlit with blue LED lighting, that give the illusion that Niku’s sushi chefs are pulling your catch of the day right from coastal waters. The rest of the space, bathed as it is in neutral browns, dark paneling, and slate, is a soothing backdrop that does double duty for a light, casual lunch or an indulgent dinner. And Mountassar says Niku’s ownership has already purchased property in downtown Fishers for an even larger, more impressive location with an in-house speakeasy. Stay tuned.
Diners stopping in at midday for some tempura and a spicy tuna roll might balk at the price point. Yet a fairly modest lunch can be had in the form of stuffed taco-like nori rolls that don’t skimp on the scallop or salmon. A dish of well-blistered shishito peppers is also piled generously and sauced with a bright yuzu aioli. Niku’s singular bao, a Niku bun with pork, makes for some luscious bites with a thick slab of meltingly tender pork chashu inside. Mountassar’s take on a humble katsu sando is crisp and juicy on perfect toasted milk bread with his special blend of Japanese condiments, though the use of a richer cut of pork means there’s a bit of gristle to contend with.
Whether your day drinking or starting off the evening, Niku’s bar features some intriguing and fun pours, especially a complex lychee martini with Japanese vodka that arrives under a swelling bubble you pop before drinking. Other cocktails, such as a Sakura lychee fizz and a yuzu whiskey fizz, fall to the sweet side.
You can let Niku’s sushi chefs choose your dinner in one of two sets of nine or 15 pieces. But you might miss such tasty small plates as sweetly savory duck tartlets with luscious—though a bit toothsome—plum-glazed duck, aromatic wagyu gyoza, and an excellent cut of seared Iberico pork with chimichurri, lemon, and tart pickled mustard that’s closer to Mountassar’s Mediterranean roots. A judicious list of a la carte sashimi and nigiri include undeniably fresh and well-cut Hokkaido scallop, silky otoro fatty tuna belly, and less-seen striped jack. Among the more interesting signature maki is a Toyosu roll with both raw yellowtail and seared sea bream and flounder, though this was quite mild despite its promise of spicy yellowtail and mayo.
An even more complex Nishiki maki starts with snow crab and adds a quartet of fish on top so that every bite is different. With Mountassar in the kitchen, diners shouldn’t pass up on cooked offerings. A standout among seafood entrees is the Ocean Miso Treasure, essentially a buttery, miso-marinated cut of Chilean sea bass. And while A5 Miyazaki Wagyu is available at the chef’s whim and for market price, a half-pound cut of deeply beefy spinalis or ribeye cap delivers delectable bites with the beguiling smoke of Japanese long-burning Binchotan charcoal.
For the most part, Mountassar’s kitchen foregoes Asian desserts, though a layered French mille-crepe cake is filled with a cooling matcha cream, a welcome Eastern twist. And a whimsical panna cotta in the mold of a bright red raspberry is a fun finish, with a tart raspberry coulis, fresh raspberries, and a shower of flower petals. It’s part of the polish and artistry that makes Niku more than worth a visit whether that’s for sushi above your Hoosier expectations or, more likely, a showcase for Mountassar’s latest culinary inventions.
11543 Sylo Crossing, Zionsville
317-973-8091
HOURS
Mon–Thu 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.,-5–10 p.m.
Fri11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.,5–11 p.m.
Sat 11:30a.m.–11 p.m.
Sun noon–9 p.m.
VIBE
Omakase steakhouse
TASTING NOTES
Fresh sushi offerings with chophouse inspired Japanese fare.
NEIGHBORHOOD
Zionsville
MUST-ORDER
A complex yet sweet lychee martini under an artful bubble; niku buns with melt-in your-mouth tender pork chashu; ultra fresh, rich yellowtail and otoro nigiri; miso-marinated Chilean sea bass; spinalis ribeye cap cooked over charcoal; artful raspberry panna cotta.
