Restaurant Guide Update: April 2019

A plate of white fish, clams, mushrooms, greens, and a creamy peppercorn sauce.
A retooled Black Market takes the menu in a new direction.

Tony Valainis

Black Market ★★★
Sophisticated Mediterranean touches and wine-friendly Continental fare now top the menu at this Mass Ave standard, where recently installed executive chef Esteban Rosas took the reins from longtime chef and partner Micah Frank in late 2018. The burger with halloumi cheese and house frites is still one of the best bar meals in the city, but elegant pastas such as cavatelli with a fragrant lamb ragout and a simple spaghettini with imported tomatoes and toasted garlic are not to be missed. Pan-roasted cod, a slow-cooked cotechino sausage with French lentils, and roasted marrow bones with grilled bread and pickled apples show just how much this rustic gastropub has evolved into an innovative bistro through the years. Desserts, such as a poached pear with earthy, rich taleggio ice cream and butterscotch, have especially found their elegance. And the secluded, pergola-topped back patio with the low buzz of the interstate is still one of downtown’s most relaxing urban retreats for enjoying a summer supper. Dinner Tues.–Sat. 922 Massachusetts Ave., 317-822-6757, $$$

Krueger’s Tavern
The third of Thunderdome Restaurant Group’s adjacent concept eateries in the Mass Ave neighborhood pays the fullest homage to the group’s Cincinnati roots and its heritage in workingman German pubs. Meats ground to Old World house recipes are shaped into everything from giant meatballs in zesty arrabbiata sauce to double-patty smashed burgers to boutique sausages with international influences. Sauerkraut balls and hot beer cheese are a hearty way to start, alongside expert cocktails. Dozens of canned beers are a nod to the first brewery to can beer, from which Krueger’s takes its name. A burger layered with bleu and Gruyère cheeses, as well as onion jam, is a refined pub-grub choice, and the fragrant Lincolnshire sausage with chunky potato-and-kale colcannon lightens up the British classic bangers and mash. The cozy location tucked away from Delaware Street is a great lunch getaway or starting point for a night of barhopping on Indy’s most happening street. Lunch and dinner daily. 323 N. Delaware St., 317-790-3660, $$

Public Greens
The self-described urban cafeteria turns a sunny street-level corner of downtown’s Cummins building into a light and cheery dining spot. The day’s options—heavy on the salads and roasted veggies—are spelled out on a chalkboard menu just inside the door. Customers mix and match dishes like pickled beets, shredded-beef tacos, Moroccan lentil soup, and shredded-carrot fritters. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 301 E. Market St., 317-785-0765, V $$

The Corner
Gone is the old-school bistro fare of this romantic Broad Ripple institution, which hosted street-side anniversary dinners for decades. In its place is family-friendly pub grub with some contemporary twists such as a barbecued meatloaf patty melt on Texas toast and beer-braised pork spareribs with roasted hominy. A curious assortment of sauces ranging from the garlic-parmesan mayo to red pepper chimichurri dress up house russet fries and crispy empanadas, but hold out for the red potato confit, a star among the sides meant for sharing. Huge screens for sports fans and a booming soundtrack make this less intimate than in years past, but live music in the basement, the cleaned-up bar of the old Wellington, and a verdant Sunday brunch make this a good alternative to nearby college bars. Lunch and dinner Thurs.–Sun. 6331 Guilford Ave., V $$