Best Restaurants 2024: Borage

Small dishes pack a big punch at this new Speedway spot.

Photograph by Tony Valainis

JOSH KLINE AND ZOË TAYLOR’S long-awaited all-day cafe, dinner spot, and market took years longer to open than they expected when they chose its Speedway site. Some even worried that the couple in business and life—who met while toiling in the kitchen at Milktooth—might never see their dream realized. But suddenly this summer, Borage threw its doors open, and all worries vanished.

Every menu lineup, from breakfast to dinner and everything in between, is a collage of standby ingredients, such as polenta or milk bread, reimagined into well-portioned small plates that will fill your table. Mussels float in kimchi-flecked coconut broth alongside a meatloaf sandwich made with brisket and bacon. Every aspect of the restaurant, its bakery, and the attached retail space feels thought-through and intentional. Borage was worth the wait.

1609 N. Lynhurst Dr., 317-734-3958, borageeats.com