Best New Breweries, No. 3: Taxman Brewing Company

Despite the profusion of craft beer in this market lately, Belgian-style ales have been noticeably scarce outside the confines of Brugge Brasserie in Broad Ripple. Enter the Taxman. Early this year, the microbrewery founded in Bargersville by two tax directors and their friends began producing small batches of the floral beers for which Belgians are known. This month, they’ll open a 20-barrel production facility there with an adjacent 3,500-square-foot taproom and a large patio.
If you’re new to the genre, Belgians can take some getting used to. For one thing, almost all of Taxman Brewing’s beers weigh in at 7 percent ABV or more. And then there are the rich fruit and yeast flavors that make it tough to knock back three or four of them. But for lovers of the style, Taxman makes delectable, unfiltered versions. La Maison farmhouse ale is a crisp, yellow beer (sometimes called a saison) that balances the traditional flavors and never tastes like potpourri (which can’t be taken for granted with this variety). From there, Belgian beers are labeled as dubbels (higher in alcohol), tripels (stronger still), and quads (watch out). The Taxman Deduction dubbel is dark and malty, with a sweetness that doesn’t agree with us. But the Exemption tripel, a medium-bodied blonde, compares with the famous Tripel de Ripple at Brugge. Incredible. As for the Qualified quad, the raisin and plum notes mask the 10.2 percent alcohol well.
The kitchen wasn’t open by press time, but the size of the taproom and the quality of the beers suggest the menu will be no less ambitious. Like death and taxes, you can count on it.
13 S. Baldwin St., Bargersville. 317-775-5706.