Taste Test: Empanadas

 

Livery

The empanada inspiration at this pan-Latin tapas concept ranges from Mexico City to Madrid. Try the mushroom version enriched with truffle and served with a kicky crema. 720 N. College Ave., 317-383- 0330; 13225 Levinson Ln., Noblesville, 317-316-0410

Empanada inspiration from Livery.

Che Chori

Of the nearly 20 varieties of flaky, buttery empanadas at this real-deal Argentinean drive-thru down the street from the Indianapolis Motor Speedway, none deliver the flavors of home more solidly than the simple beef version studded with onions, olives, and eggs. 3124 W. 16th St., 317-737-2012

Beef empanada at Che Chori.

Mr. Patakon

A crispy, corn-based shell is more traditional in the fried empanadas from Colombia, and this southside newcomer that opened late last year offers four varieties, including a beef and a funky Hawaiian version with pineapple, though the cheesy chicken packs the most flavor, especially when drizzled with a vinegary aji picante. 7415 U.S. 31, 317-692-9829

Mr. Patakon’s hawaiian inspired empanadas.

Panadas

Both fried and baked styles of empanadas are on offer from this second Venezuelan-inspired food stall from the owners of Azucar Morena at The Garage food hall. You can’t beat the masa-encased chorizo empanada, large enough for a meal and even better when you ask for a side of “secret” fiery salsa. 906 Carrollton Ave., 317-556- 1252

The chorizo empanada from Panadas.

Delicia

A bit further from a festival snack than most, this creative take at Latin-fusion favorite Delicia leans toward Mexico with slow-braised barbacoa wrapped in lush puff pastry and sauced with habanero salsa and tangy lime crema, served alongside herb rice as a hearty entree. 5215 N. College Ave., 317-925-0677

Delicia’s barbacoa empanada.