Out of all of the restaurants in this year’s freshman class, none hit the mark better than this buzzing breakfast-and-brunch spot in the awakening foodie destination of Fletcher Place. In a space that looks like an Urban Outfitters catalog come to life—a counter with chrome stools, an old baker’s table rutted and seasoned with use, a shelf stocked with cookbooks and trinkets, tables made from rough-hewn slabs of timber that the owner himself varnished and finished—Jonathan and Ashley Brooks present a constantly revolving roster of classic comfort dishes that have sipped from the hipster fountain of youth. Blink and you might miss some of the Brookses’ star plates, like savory fried-bologna okonomiyaki, pistachio twice-baked croissants, hanger-steak carne asada, or sweet-tea fried chicken perched atop a mound of biscuits and duck-neck gravy. Even more impressive than the ambitious menu is the kitchen’s ability to follow through, dish after dish, day after day. Execution isn’t sacrificed for experimentation, which makes Milktooth not just the best restaurant to come onto the scene this year, but also one of the best in Indianapolis, period.
Concept: Fine diner
Owners: Jonathan and Ashley Brooks
Chef: Jonathan Brooks
Pedigree: Jonathan Brooks is a former chef de cuisine at Recess. The couple briefly hosted a site-specific underground supper club called Dented Ladle Dining.
Try it if you like: Taste Cafe
Check it out: 534 Virginia Ave., 317-986-5131, milktoothindy.com