Illustration by Lulu Dubreuil
“ESTATE jewelry” may conjure up an image of the entire antique or vintage jewelry collection of a rich elderly lady. While that is sometimes the case, the term simply means any piece of fine jewelry that is being resold after its initial purchase, clarifies Andrew Pyke, senior jewelry consultant at Reis-Nichols Jewelers. Popular brands among estate jewelry shoppers are the timeless classics like Cartier, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef & Arpels, as well as modern favorites Roberto Coin, David Yurman, and John Hardy.
For 30 years or so, white gold and sterling dominated, but yellow gold is back. Demand is particularly high for chains, earrings, and rings. “Trends have changed in the last ve years,” notes Pyke. “Now when you look at the runways of Paris, London, or New York, you see gold buttons on purses. You see gold chains.” Building a bevy of gilded jewelry with estate pieces is clearly the more affordable, and sustainable, route. A 14-karat gold estate chain can be as little as half the price of a new one, shares Pyke.
You can ensure authenticity by heading to an authorized dealer of a range of jewelry lines. The provenance of any estate jewelry piece should be documented. Before making a final decision on a vintage or antique dazzler, remember that fine jewelry of the 1960s or prior was never meant for 24/7 wear, let alone exercising or doing yard work. Old pieces, especially those with stones, are more intricately crafted than newer ones, and thus more delicate. “Think in terms of grandma,” suggests Pyke. “Back then, she wouldn’t wear her jewelry during the day, but in the evening or on special occasions. Everyday rings were simple, like a plain gold wedding band.”
