The Feed: Beards Bummer, City Way Sushi, Parkside Pub

Plus: Some final eclipse-related recommendations, a new bagel shop, and more of Indy’s freshest dining news.
chef in kitchen
Sal Fernandez, the executive chef at Greencastle restaurant Bridges Craft Pizza & Wine Bar. (Indianapolis Monthly file photo)

The finalists for the 2024 James Beard Awards (basically, the Oscars but for restaurants) were announced Wednesday, and the state of Indiana was completely shut out of the list. Is this as egregious as Greta Gerwig’s best director snub? You tell me. We still had some representation in the semifinals (announced in January), with Thomas Melvin, the executive chef of downtown Indy tasting menu spot Vida (601 E. New York St., 317-420-2323) on the list, as well as Sal Fernandez, who runs the kitchen at Greencastle’s Bridges Craft Pizza & Wine Bar (19 N. Indiana St., Greencastle, 765-653-0021). Probing texts I sent to the people I know on the awards committees were (understandably) unanswered as of publication time.

I’m not here to yuck anyone’s yum, so I’ll just say that I am really looking forward to the joys that life will hold after Monday’s doubtlessly thrilling (albeit, not to animals) total solar eclipse. For those of you whose enthusiasm remains uncurbed, make sure to note Indy Today’s rundown of themed cocktails and treats at The Amp. (I snagged one of those Circle City Sweets macarons and recommend them highly.) Diners who spend the event at select Cunningham Restaurant Group spots will be offered free eclipse glasses, which they can don while drinking the company’s themed cocktails such as the tequila and strawberry Ring of Fire at Provision (2721 E. 86th St., 317-843-6105). Otherwise, I’ll see you back here for a whole new slate of eclipse specials for the next one on October 17, 2153.

Our friends at Axios Indianapolis tipped us off to Sushi Den (233 S. Delaware St., 317-671-7777) a CityWay storefront that opened “last Monday”—the owner told me when I stopped by. Its dining room design is clean and minimal, and its menu has a nice selection of rolls and cooked, non-seafood dishes. Sushi Den’s website isn’t up yet, but this photo will give you a peek at the menu.

A local taproom veteran is bringing a new sandwich spot to Garfield Park. The IBJ reports that Josh Haines (of Garfield Brewery) and realtor Phil Kirk are opening Parkside Public House inside a 1916 building at 2602 Shelby Street. Expect soups and salads, brunch timed to the nearby farmers market schedule, and beer and wine. Opening, the business says on Facebook, is tentatively planned for “the early summer of 2024.”

The Beccy from Sidedoor Bagels. Credit: Jes Nijjer

Fans of the breakfast sandwiches at Sidedoor Bagels (1103 E. 10th St.) are about to get a real treat. Starting this weekend, you can enjoy their hand-rolled sourdough creations as part of an April collab with other local food cool kids, they announced via Instagram. First up is a sandwich inspired by dearly departed innovator Rook and The Garage’s Lil Dumplings Noodle Bar. Both are spots from chef Carlos Salazar,  who tells us he created a spam and “kimcheese” (think pimento cheese but with kimchi instead) sandwich with Alabama barbecue sauce and pickles, stacked within a sliced, bright purple bagel made with one of the year’s hottest ingredients: ube. Stop by Sidedoor on April 6–7 for that one, with options from Gomez BBQ, Natural State Provisions, and Julieta Taco Shop to follow every weekend thereafter.

The Star reports that Mariam Coffee, an Istanbul-based company with locations in seven countries, has chosen a Fishers franchisee for its first U.S. outpost. Based on photos posted to social media, the 11809 Allisonville Road shop serves up hot and cold drinks, French-press coffee, and pastries.

I learned from a youthful colleague today that “plug” is a slang term for an illicit dealer of cannabis products, which helps explain the name of a new sweets shop headed to Mass Ave. Cookie Plug, a national chain that our friends at the IBJ characterize as “inspired by hip-hop culture,” will open its first Indiana location at 646 Massachusetts Avenue in late April. Franchisee Doreen Walters is reportedly planning on opening four more shops across Central Indiana, with locations still TBD.

While we’re on chains, Barry Bagels has also just made its Indiana debut. The Toledo-based company launched a franchise operation a decade ago, the Blade reported at the time, and now you’ll see Barry Bagels signs throughout Ohio and Michigan. Its first Hoosier stop is in Carmel at 14250 Clay Terrace Boulevard (317-993-3030) and is open daily from 6:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.