Apicio Brings Diners Together With More Than Cuisine

Apicio invites diners to linger over dishes inspired by the chef’s friends and family.
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CHEF EMILIO CENTO pulls from his decades-long resume at Zionsville’s new Apicio Ristorante & Enoteca. The word “apicio” is from Marcus Gavius Apicius, a Roman gourmand from the first century who compiled the oldest known collection of Roman recipes. “His whole belief was that a meal is more than just a meal. It’s a gathering of friends and people,” says Cento.  But the second-generation restaurateur is equally inspired by the people he has met working in the business. One of his dishes, The Gabriele, takes its name from a chef who worked in his father’s restaurant. The jumbo shrimp stuffed with crab and roasted red pepper over lemon risotto and beurre blanc was a favorite of one of Cento’s former chefs who passed away. And the lentil soup at Apicio? Cento’s mother makes it herself. No surprise, customers feel a close connection, too. “A lot of my guests happen to know each other,” Cento says. “Some nights, it’s like a party with people walking around and talking.”

3311 S. U.S. Hwy. 421, Zionsville, 317-344-0100